Beiträge von rbm

    Tried to find play in the rear axle couldn't find any when both rear wheels where on stands and the gear in neutral. Today I was thinking don't you guys think it could be the active rear sway bar because there isn't any play in the suspension? See movie


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    Dear MunichMark. Thanks for your answer. I definetely feel it in the rear so I don't thinks it's comming from the front. It's really strange that not one garage has found the problem so far. It almost seems to come from close to the camera https://photos.app.goo.gl/581yLps66VoFuuAGA in this movie. The guibos don't look to wrong. See pictures. Have no idea where to go from here.



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    Dear Experts,


    My german ins't that good so I will try it in english. Hopefully no problem.


    For approximately a couple of months I have an extremely annoying clunking sound coming from the back of my car when accelerating. It's an BMW F11 530D production year 08/2010. Hopefully I can find the problem, although I already tried a lot of things.

    The sound is the most pronounced when you accelerate with the car from standing still with the steering wheel turned completely to the left. I think I feel and hear the sound the best on the left side in the back of the car. But not completely sure. Until now 3 different garages couldn't pin point the problem. The problem is best hearable in this movie filmed from the underside of the car pointed to the left side of the car https://photos.app.goo.gl/581yLps66VoFuuAGA


    The things I have tried so far:

    1) Replaced both shock absorbers (fairly expensive L ) because they are active shocks problem still persists

    2) Replaced the 3 differential rubbers (hell of a job) rubber 11 and 8 see link https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=MX51-EUR-08-2010-F11-BMW-530d&diagId =33_1454


    3) One of the garages found a little bit of play in the central part of the right wheel of the active rear steering. The suggestions were that it could be the bearing in this axis. I placed a GoPro under the car to film this HSR system https://photos.app.goo.gl/FscAGVZm6w7A4rpB8 I don't think I can see any play in this joint as you can see in this movie.


    4) The garage told me that the problem could be the ball joint number 13 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en…1-BMW-530d&diagId=33_1453

    but that he couldn't find the play in the joint because of the pressure that the air suspensions puts on the rear axle. So I removed the air out the air suspensions and tried to find any play in the rear axle but couldn't find anything even with the air removed.


    5) Checked both guibos some small hair pin tears but not as worn as the differential rubbers

    I tried a lot of thing but the problem is still persisting. Hopefully one of the experts here has an idea how to continue from here because I am a little bit stocked.

    Thanks in advance !

    Dear BMW drivers,

    My german isn't that good so I will try it in english. Hopefully no problemo.


    I have a strange problem with my car. Long story short broken timing chain huge costs revision of head of the engine etc ... When the chain snapped I tried starting the cars several times which drained the battery of the car completely. Car was coming up with the message that the remote control wasn't in the car. The car is fixed now and the battery is full.

    The strange thing is that one of the keys isn't working anymore. I don't think its coincidence and that this remote is broken during exactly the same time.

    When I start up Ista both remotes 1 and 2 are registered and not blocked. It can also measure the voltage of the not working remote but it won't communicate with the car. It only starts the car when I place the remote near the coil. The other key is working perfect as with comfort access and al the buttons.

    Is there an additional way of testing this not working remote? Can one of the remotes after completely draining off the battery of the car be disconnected / unregistered somehow? Or do I need something like an ACDP tool to readout the CAS4 / 4 + via OBD. The BMW dealer couldn't directly fix the problem so I needed an appointment and I assume that they are gonna charge a lot of money.

    Hopefully someone has any idea.

    Thanks in advance!

    Ok so the advice is to replace it preventive because there are a lot of N57 engines with connecting rod bearing damage, although this is not the primary problem in my case?


    Was getting different messages about this online and couldn't find a lot of people with a failing oil pump, so thought maybe not to do this if still looks oke. Especially that it already worked for approximately 240k kms so I was thinking it would still last.


    I still don't get the fact that with planned chain replacement it isn't a standard thing they do. Should be something related to extra costs I guess. Or something else?

    hi.

    bmw replaced the chain with a better version. I think your 2010 builded car had the old one inside.

    The new replaced one is better than the old one, so I think there would not be any problems in the future.

    Anyway you should order a new oil pump and swap it.

    Also it would be nice to swap the bearing shells.....

    Dear Mezmerize thanks for your answer. Is it common for these engines that the oil pump fail after a while because I couldn't a lot of information about this online. In addition companies who change the chains before the snap don't standard replace the pump...?